Wineries across Melbourne’s west are welcoming back visitors after multiple lengthy COVID-19 lockdowns. Michaela Meade spoke to local winemakers about how it felt to throw open the cellar doors once more.
Victoria’s lockdowns to contain COVID-19 also shut down the much-loved experience of a day trip to a winery.
Staff at wineries across the state found themselves without customers to serve at the cellar door – the main source of income for the industry.
That was until the state opened up once more after a sixth lockdown, and the winemaking venues were able to have guests once more.
Shadowfax Winery in Werribee South has had bookings “flooding in” since being able to open again, according to general manager Phil Strachan.
“It’s great to be able to welcome back all our regular guests, who we have missed, and welcome new faces to our restaurant and cellar door,” Mr Strachan says.
“As soon as we announced that we were reopening, bookings started flooding in.
“It was so encouraging for us.
“Being so close to Christmas, the demand is high, but now that the weather is warmer and the days longer, we’re able to accommodate guests both inside and out … being able to welcome people back is the reward at the end of 18 very challenging months.”
Ms Strachan says the pandemic had impacted the restaurant side of the business, however the winemaking remained the same.
“We were fortunate to be able to offer a takeaway service during each lockdown … which allowed us to continue trading and keep our staff employed,” he says.
“For the wine side, it was business as usual and our winemaking team worked the whole way through, in the winery, testing and tasting wines, and ensuring that our vineyards were meticulously maintained.”
Mr Strachan says the support from the residents of Wyndham was invaluable to keeping morale going.
“Without their loyalty, business and support, we wouldn’t be in the position we’re in,” he says.
One of the main attractions that visitors to Shadowfax Winery can enjoy coming up to the Christmas season, Mr Strachan says, is Friday Twilight sessions.
“Featuring live music and our a la carte menu, people love the relaxed setting and atmosphere of our Friday nights,” he says.
“It’s also a great chance for people to catch up with friends, family and colleagues for dinner in the lead up to Christmas.”
Further away from the Melbourne CBD, Hanging Rock Winery in Newham is also “buzzing” since reopening, says direct-to-customer manager Michelle Toose.
Ms Toose says the winery staff were “super excited” to welcome back visitors to enjoy wine, the sculptural exhibition ‘Art in the Vines’, and a day out in the picturesque Macedon Ranges.
“The Cellar Door is buzzing again every day of the week, but especially the weekends with friends and families driving from Melbourne for a day out in nature,” Ms Toose says.
“We are lucky to have so much space for everyone to spread out and enjoy our breathtaking views of Hanging Rock and the Macedon Ranges.”
Although the winery’s regional location meant it could remain open when the greater Melbourne area was locked down, Ms Toose says the absence of visitors from the city was very much felt.
“Cellar Door numbers [were] not the same when Melbourne [was] in lockdown,” she says.
“We were very grateful that we could still open to regional visitors at times during the year, but we certainly missed our Melbourne friends.
“Seeing cars drive up the driveway again and the car park full on weekends brings us a lot of joy.”
Ms Toose says she would welcome any and all visitors to Hanging Rock Winery over the Christmas period, and recommends making a day of it to explore the wider Macedon Ranges area.
Bindi Wines in Gisborne had an unexpected aspect of its service thrive during the lockdowns, owner and generational winemaker Michael Dhillon says.
Mr Dhillon said throughout the pandemic, online orders became a main source of income for the business.
He said the community had responded enthusiastically to the idea of purchasing wine online without leaving their houses.
“They responded very strongly which is understandable, of course, because people were restricted to being at home,” he says.
“They weren’t able to go to their favourite bars or restaurants or pubs and share wine, so they chose to do it at home.
“We received great support in that respect … the restaurant business closed for a considerable amount of time, but the retailers and mailing lists picked up the slack.”
Mr Dhillon, who was recognised as Winemaker of the Year at the 2022 Halliday Wine Companion awards, said the support from the local community was valuable for each winery, no matter the location.
“All the local wineries appreciate very much the support of our local community,” he says.
“We’ve got more and more good restaurants and independent wine shops who are supporting small, local wineries really well and it’s very much appreciated.”
Mr Dhillon says the industry had gone back to normal after a tough pandemic experience.
“It seems to be fully back in swing now.”
